Geelong – Victoria

I’d wanted to visit Geelong for a long time – at least five years in fact – but on every visit to Melbourne, there was always some reason for delaying the trip.

But now, six months in to living in Central Victoria, I have finally made it. I drove there about two weeks ago, despite the fact that I hadn’t heard a lot of praise for the place. Most comments were along the lines of “I’ve never found anything there to recommend it,” or, “It’s solid working class and filled with football freaks,” said someone else.

But when another person told me it was “still pleasantly grungy – not yet fashionable or pretentious,” I decided a trip was definitely warranted.

And having met a young solo mother with two kids, holding down three jobs and studying at Geelong’s Deakin University, and thereby making the 1.5-hour drive twice a week for lectures, I decided I‘d need a better excuse for NOT going than, ‘I never find the time.’

Plus I had a mission. I wanted to catch the last days of “Fred Williams in the You Yangs,” an exhibition at Geelong Art Gallery. Several people have asked if my painting has been influenced by Fred Williams, but as I’d never heard of him (I’m ashamed to say), until three months ago, I decided I’d better find out what he was all about.

[As an aside, No, my work hasn’t been influenced by him and any very tiny similarity in SOME of my paintings, is purely coincidental].

For anyone else who has never heard of Fred Williams (1927-1982), he was an unassuming-looking man – a major Australian artist - who is said to have changed the way the Australian landscape could be painted and seen “in resolutely abstract terms, yet powerfully recognizable by viewers as quintessentially of Australia.”

His work in the You Yangs (a fascinating granite-covered landscape about 20km north of Geelong), began in 1962 and continued through to the late 1970s, encompassing everything from sketches and notes to drawings, prints, gouaches and large scale oil paintings.

I loved them all. I sat in front of them in a quiet gallery for a long time, taking in the meditative quality of his abstract hieroglyphics – like exquisite little bird scratchings in oil paint; and so very evocative of the Australian landscape.  It was peaceful after the hustle and bustle of the Archibald Prize Gallery next door, where every man and his dog had arrived to look at the finalists and winners. They were literally pouring in by the bus load.

The Archibald Prize is awarded annually to the best portrait, 'preferentially of some man or woman distinguished in art, letters, science or politics, painted by any artist resident in Australasia’.

The Archibald Prize was first awarded in 1921. In establishing the prize, J.F Archibald’s aim was to foster portraiture as well as support artists and perpetuate the memory of great Australians. Over the years some of Australia’s most prominent artists have entered and the subjects have been equally celebrated in their fields.

I was particularly taken by the Nicholas Harding portrait of Australian artist, John Olsen, Anh Do’s portrait of Aboriginal actor, Jack Charles, and by Andrew Lloyd Greensmith’s work, “The Inner Stillness of (102-year-old) Eileen Kramer (above).

Beyond the art gallery, I spent some time driving the streets of inner Geelong getting a feel for the place. Geelong is a port city, located in Coria Bay, 75km south-west of Melbourne. It is Victoria’s second largest city, with a population of around 192,393.

In October this year, it became one of the 180 world-wide cities to be part of UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network. The designation recognises the design history of Geelong and surrounds, from the region’s Aboriginal heritage to its history in textiles and wool production; automotive design and manufacturing to designs that have revolutionised surf culture. It also celebrates innovations currently being made across the region in advanced manufacturing and virtual reality.

You need time to discover a lot of that I suspect, as it’s not immediately evident on a quick one hour drive. The shops were mostly ordinary at first glance, in buildings old and new; there seemed to be a proliferation of Asian restaurants, numerous tattoo parlours, pubs and Pokies places.

That said, I quickly discovered some beautiful old houses and inner city buildings. The new Geelong Library and Heritage Centre (beside the Art Gallery) (above), is striking for its geodesic dome. It was designed by ARM Architecture of Melbourne and opened in November 2015.

By comparison, the huge Geelong Government Building across the road surprises with its overt Brutalist architecture (also above).

And then there is the wonderful palm-lined esplanade, alive with walkers and cyclists –definitely a jewel in the city’s crown I’d say. With its multitude of cafes and restaurants, landscaped gardens, public art, kids’ play and swimming areas, enclosed sea baths, the restored historic carousel, it’s a major attraction for locals and visitors alike.

And then there are the quirky bollards – over 100 of them that are located in around 48 different spots along the promenade. They’re the work of local artist Jan Mitchen, who was commissioned by the City of Greater Geelong to transform old timbers and piles from a city pier that was demolished in the 1980s, into works of art. It must have been a mammoth undertaking but one well worth it. They give the whole area a great sense of fun and colour.

It was a fleeting visit but it did confirm one thing for me –another trip south, probably an overnighter – is definitely on the cards in early 2018.